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How-to: Replace secondary air injection (AIR) valve

From
From: "vw97gtivr6" <vw97gtivr6@yahoo>
Subject: Secondary AIR problem re-re-re-re-visited.
Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2004 07:37:48 -0000
 
Hi, Everyone. I haven't been keeping up with this list lately, and I
saw there have been a bunch of posts about the Secondary AIR system.
Others were having the same problem as me. Here's the outcome of my
problem.

It turned out that as thorough as I was checking all the vacuum and
electrical circuits, I forgot to check the solenoid valve. After I
realized this, I popped it out, saw corrosion around the vent hole,
and immediately new it was bad. To double check, I used some jumper
wires to hook it up directly to  the battery, sure enough, there was
no click from the solenoid. It should sound just like a relay being
activated. For $35 and 10 minutes of my time, I was able to replace it
and pass inspection (They still failed me even though I had no fault
codes, but that's another story. A private inspection station couldn't
find anything wrong, and passed me. Go New Jersey!)

You can replace that 4th vacuum hose that goes to the diaphragm valve,
without removing the intake. And it's not as hard as you might think,
and can be done in less than an hour. But it did take me all day to
fugure this out and several trips to Sears for tools I didn't need, so
pay attention!. Here's how.

1)Remove the plastic trim piece from on top of the radiator that shows
the vacuum circuits and emissions info.

2) Remove the bolt for the front engine mount. (Below radiator, front
and center of the engine)

3) Jack up the front of the engine. With the engine mount unbolted,
this will tilt the engine back, away from the radiator, giving you
room to work. Space will still be tight, but it's enough to work with.

4) The AIR pump is held to the engine block by bracket. This bracket
is connected to the engine block by 4 hex head bolts (allen heads).
You can't see one of them, because it's obscured by the intake. Feel
with your hands and/or consult the diagrams in your trusty bentley manual.

DO NOT remove the AIR pump from the bracket itself. It will get you no
where, and it's hard to get the screws back in once yo get them out.

5) Once the AIR pump brack is separated from the block, you can move
the  AIR pump forward and down enough to get at the connection on the
Vacuum valve where the vacuum hose goes. You can't see it, but you can
at least reach it now.

The vacuum hose itself is 3MM.

It took me all day to do this the first time, because I didn't know
exactly what bolts needed to be removed. Following these instructions,
I could probably do it again in about 30 minutes.

Sorry I didn't post this sooner.



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