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How-to: Relocating the charcoal canister (to make room for intake ducting, etc.)

Table of Contents
Re: Charcaol canister relocation Eric Dotson <ecdot@sprynet> Wed, 25 Feb 1998 19:26:27 +0000
Re: [gti-vr6] Carbon/Charcoal canister "Myron Ybarra" <YbarraRonTracey@worldnet.att> Fri, 10 Apr 1998 21:07:21 -0700
Re: [gti-vr6] Carbon/Charcoal canister "Myron Ybarra" <YbarraRonTracey@worldnet.att> Fri, 10 Apr 1998 21:07:21 -0700
Re: [gti-vr6] Air Bath ? Help Adam Peirce <apeirce@snet> Thu, 27 Aug 1998 09:56:57 -0400
[gti-vr6] Re: cold air induction (long, long, long) Adam Peirce <apeirce@snet> Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:51:03 -0400
[gti-vr6] relocating charcoal cannister deecee@exit109 Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:24:14 -0400
[gti-vr6] Greg Coe's cold air induction setup instructions (VERY long) "Greg Coe" <gcoe4733@postoffice.uri> Thu, 12 Nov 1998 22:41:37 -0500
Re: [gti-vr6] Greg Coe's cold air induction setup instructions deecee@exit109 Sat, 14 Nov 1998 11:47:40 -0500
Re: [gti-vr6] Re:Midknight Motorsports Air Bath Ian Frechette <frechett@rintintin.Colorado> Sun, 23 May 1999 13:58:12 -0600
Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister Mike Bigus <gtivr6r@chicagonet> Thu, 08 Jul 1999 10:04:25 -0500
Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister pm <pm@onramp> Thu, 08 Jul 1999 10:14:06 -0500
Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister David Kim <glxvr6@ibm> Thu, 08 Jul 1999 11:45:00 -0400
Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister chris_rogers@corp.adaptec (Chris Rogers) Thu, 08 Jul 1999 09:36:47 -0700
Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister pm <pm@onramp> Thu, 08 Jul 1999 11:58:04 -0500
[gti-vr6] Re: Relocating the Charcoal Cannister Ben T <Ibnt@erols> Thu, 08 Jul 1999 15:30:45 +0000



From ecdot@sprynet Wed Feb 25 17:07:01 CST 1998
From: Eric Dotson <ecdot@sprynet>
To: Eugene Oh <eugeneoh@post1>
Subject: Re: Charcaol canister relocation
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 19:26:27 +0000
Cc: aqn@dev.tivoli
 
Relocating the can is easy.  I used 1/4" vacuum hose from the local auto
parts store, and some cheap universal tubing connectors.  I connected
the hose to the factory  hoses, no cutting so everything could be put
back if need be.  I ran the vac hose down the hole in the fender where
the stock snorkel picked up air, then accross the front subframe rail,
the one the front motor mount bolts to.  There are a series of about 1/2
inch slots puched in the rail.  I zip tied the hose using these and the
hose actually sits up inside the rail.  There are holes in the brace
under the battery similar to the holes the can attaches to in the stock
location.  I could only get the can to attach to 2 of the 3 holes, so I
secured it with a zip tie for good measure.  Its not hard to do, just
take your time.  Mine's been that way for about six months now with no
problems.

Eric










From YbarraRonTracey@worldnet.att Fri Apr 10 21:07:21 1998
From: "Myron Ybarra" <YbarraRonTracey@worldnet.att>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Carbon/Charcoal canister
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 21:07:21 -0700
 
[...]
Just to help you out a little, you can relocate the charcoal canister to
the opposite side of the car beneath the battery.  You will need  (2) 7
foot long 1/4 inch id fuel lines, (4) brass 1/4 inch inline barbed
connectors  (DON'T use plastic connectors, unless they are rated for use in
fuel systems), (8) 1/4 inch stainless steel band clamps / anodized set
screws (I use them because they don't corrode), and 4-5 tie wrap lines.   I
include these parts in my 96-97 Air Bath kits.  The relocation is really
self explanatory once you see where the canister will go.  The holes where
the stock wrap bracket for the charcoal canister mount into are the same on
the opposite side under the battery (there will be a relay just above the
hole in front of the battery).   I believe the canisters on the 98's have
the purge valve on or near them which will need to be relocated too.  I
haven't had a 98 to use in R&D for relocate testing  the valve yet so I
can't really help you out there.

[...]

Good luck with your project

Myron Ybarra
http://members.tripod.com/~MIDKNIGHT_MOTORSPORT










From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Fri Apr 10 23:13 CDT 1998
From: "Myron Ybarra" <YbarraRonTracey@worldnet.att>
To: "PJ McGarvey" <pjm159@psu>, <gti-vr6@dev.tivoli>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Carbon/Charcoal canister
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 21:07:21 -0700
 
[...]

I do not recommend removing the charcoal canister.  I don't know where you
got your info but the charcoal canister is a necessary part of the
emissions system in our cars and its removal will cause your ECU to fault
(it will also void your emissions warranty and it may be illegal to remove
it).  The fuel vapors that are routed to the intake manifold are calculated
into the air/fuel mixture ratio by the ECU and if the canister and purge
valve are removed, less fuel is introduced into the combustion process and
you may run a lean condition which will cause your car to detonate
especially if you have introduced more air into the cylinders via a cold
air intake and low restriction filter.  Also since the charcoal canister
only collects and releases fuel vapors, it rarely wears out.  The part that
often wears out is the purge valve.  It gets stuck in the open position and
will cause you car to run a little rich.


Just to help you out a little, you can relocate the charcoal canister to
the opposite side of the car beneath the battery.  You will need  (2) 7
foot long 1/4 inch id fuel lines, (4) brass 1/4 inch inline barbed
connectors  (DON'T use plastic connectors, unless they are rated for use in
fuel systems), (8) 1/4 inch stainless steel band clamps / anodized set
screws (I use them because they don't corrode), and 4-5 tie wrap lines.   I
include these parts in my 96-97 Air Bath kits.  The relocation is really
self explanatory once you see where the canister will go.  The holes where
the stock wrap bracket for the charcoal canister mount into are the same on
the opposite side under the battery (there will be a relay just above the
hole in front of the battery).   I believe the canisters on the 98's have
the purge valve on or near them which will need to be relocated too.  I
haven't had a 98 to use in R&D for relocate testing  the valve yet so I
can't really help you out there.

> I find this solution to be much more efficient and less costly than an
> airbath and a P-flo.  Let me know what opinions yall have on this.

Less costly, probably, but more efficient is debatable.

Good luck with your project

Myron Ybarra
http://members.tripod.com/~MIDKNIGHT_MOTORSPORT










From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Thu Aug 27 08:58 CDT 1998
From: Adam Peirce <apeirce@snet>
To: ben t <ibnt@erols>, gti <gti-vr6@dev.tivoli>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Air Bath ? Help
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 09:56:57 -0400
 
ben t wrote:

> Ok I bought the stuff to relocate the carbon cannister but there
> appears to be a battery in the way so where the heck do you put the
> cannister if it is to be moved to the drivers side of the car.  My
> used kit did not come with relocation directions so I have to figure
> this out on my own.

Ben,

I don't have an Airbath but when I made my induction setup I relocated
the cannister below the battery on the drivers side. Your charcoal
cannister will have three little tabs (two on top one on the bottom)
where it slipped into three slots on the passenger side to mount it. On
my '95 on the drivers side there are two slots that the charcoal
cannister will fit in after you cut the bottom tab off of the cannister.
It's easy to fit once you cut the tab off. Additionally you need to
loosen the sleeve that holds the cannister and slip it down a little in
it's harness. Once it was in place I used a big zip tie to secure it to
the frame. I relocated the lines at the bottom in front of the radiator
on a chassis cross-member using zip ties in holes that are already
existing.

For my setup, I fabricated a heat shield that seals against the bottom
of the hood. I then modified the lower grill below the foglights and the
horn (cut some of the trumpet end off and moved it in its bracket) and
fitted some ducting in there and up through the hole where the charcoal
cannister was from. I'm happy with what I've done but want to make
another heat shield out of some thicker aluminum, and give it a couple
of tweaks. When that's finished I'll post more complete instructions and
a template for the heatshield on my homepage.

Hope that helps.

-Adam

--
Adam Peirce

95 VR6 GTI, Black,
Shine Real Street suspension,
Neuspeed 28mm rear sway bar,
Dunlop D-40 M2s,
Autotech Q-Chip,
Neuspeed P-Flow,
Custom cold-air induction,
Walnut shift knob

&#97;sp&#64;snet<img src=/i/dn.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>
http://www.deckerhead.com/adam


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From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Sat Sep 19 22:30 CDT 1998
From: Adam Peirce <apeirce@snet>
To: RJG1199@aol, VR6 GTI list <gti-vr6@dev.tivoli>
Subject: [gti-vr6] Re: cold air induction (long, long, long)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:51:03 -0400
 
[...]

1. Moving the Evaporative cannister.

To do this I followed listmember (and inventor of the Airbath) Myron
Ybarra's direction.

Here's the supply list he offered:

[...]

Now let me add my footnote. I had to do two things on the bracket for
the EC. The first is to saw off the bottom of the three litttle tabs. On
my car (a '95) there were only two holes on the driver's side. They are
arranged in a triangle two on top one on bottom. The other thing I did
was loosen the bracket and slide the cannister down in the bracket to
clear a relay.

[...]









From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Tue Oct 6 22:14 CDT 1998
From: deecee@exit109
To: gti-vr6@dev.tivoli
Subject: [gti-vr6] relocating charcoal cannister
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:24:14 -0400
 
If you own a 96 and up car and plan to relocate your cannister make extra
sure that all connections are properly tightened.  During driving the ECM
checks the purge valve and on the newer cars with LDP the entire breath
system is checked for leaks. If a leak develops the MIL will come on and a
trip to the dealer for repairs. If the dealer is nice no problem if the
dealer hates mods get out your check book.

Don
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From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Thu Nov 12 21:49 CST 1998
From: "Greg Coe" <gcoe4733@postoffice.uri>
To: "Wally Green" <coolwally@email.msn>,
Subject: [gti-vr6] Greg Coe's cold air induction setup instructions (VERY long)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 22:41:37 -0500
Cc: "Simon O. Quezada" <QuuePaz@worldnet.att>, <U1arunit@aol>,
 
WOW!  I got tons of replies about my intake!  I'll do my best to explain
this, it's all from memory, I did the mod about 6 months ago.  I'll give you
a run down of what you need for this project:

Carbon canister relocation:

about 15 feet of 1/4" ID fuel line hose
4 barbed hose connectors
a bunch of fuel line clamps
some zip-ties (about 12 or so)
a 1" bolt and nut to relocate fan relay (only on some model years)

For the cold air ducting:

about 2 feet of 2 1/4" shop vac hose (I got mine from an old sears vac)
small snorkel off the back of the stock airbox where the trap-door thingy is
2 1/4" hole saw to cut opening in airbox

First step is to relocate the carbon canister to make room for the ducting.
Pull out the airbox assembly. Remove the two hoses going into the top of the
canister.  Pull off the shroud under the car beneath the canister.  There
are two phillips head screws on the front spoiler, and two 8 mm hex head
bolts in the fenderwell.  Push firmly upward on the canister from the bottom
of the car and pull it forward to release it from the frame.  It will take
some struggling to wiggle it out of the car from the bottom, but it will
come out.  Cut that 15' piece of fuel line directly in half, and splice it
to the existing hoses that led to the canister using the barbed connectors.
(Note:  one of the hoses (the black one) will have an enlarged end on it,
and a 90 degree bend.  Cut the hose about 4" from the end and save this
piece- it will be used on the other side to attach back onto the canister)
Route the hoses down through the opening where the canister was.  Using zip
ties, run the hoses along the front crossmember (under the radiator) and
secure them with zip-ties. (this will be quite obvious, the crossmember has
a channel the hoses sit in, and slots to run the ties through)  If you look
at the bracket attached to the carbon canister, you will notice that it has
3 tabs.  Snip off the center (lower) one with some wire cutters or
something.  If you have a pre-98 model, you will see the fan relay (#111)
just in front of the battery.  This will have to be moved slightly to make
room for the canister.  In the battery tray you will see an empty, unused
hole.  Remove the relay from its existing location and use the nut and bolt
to reattach it to this hole.  Now remove the shroud on the left side of the
car, and slide the carbon canister up into the area where the fan relay was.
You will notice that it will sit in the same position as it did on the
passenger side, except that there are only 2 slots in the frame rather than
the 3 that were on the passenger side.  (this is why you remove the center
tab)  Slide the canister into these slots (it will take some effort, make
sure it goes in all the way and it will be very secure) and run the 2 hoses
up to the top of the canister.  Trim to length.  Attach that 4 inch piece of
hose you cut off (the one that bends 90 degrees and has the large end)  to
the corresponding hose it came off of, and reattach it to the center fitting
on the canister with a clamp.  Attach the other hose (it slips right on) to
the canister and secure with a clamp.  Be sure you do not mix the hoses up,
and check that all fittings are tight, or you may get a check engine light!
Now for the installation of the ducting.  Remove the grille in the lower
right bumper opening (where the air temp sensor is).  Punch out the center
of  this grille and insert the airbox snorkel through the opening so that
the flared end is facing outward.  Run the shop vac hose down through the
carbon canister opening and out the grille opening. (you may have to bend
the horn bracket slightly; it bends easily)  Attach the hose to the back of
the snorkel (I just ran a small screw through them) and slide the assembly
back into the car, and reattach the temp sensor.  Using the holesaw, bore a
hole in the airbox just above where the carbon canister was and feed the
hose through.  It is a tight fit, and very secure.  The ridges in the shop
vac hose are the same thickness as the plastic on the airbox, so it
basically locks together.  Reinstall everything (airbox, shrouds, etc) and
you are all set!  Let me know if you need any help or info!

Later,
Greg








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From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Sat Nov 14 10:45 CST 1998
From: deecee@exit109
To: "Fiorentino F. Iantosca" <tiantosc@rational>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Greg Coe's cold air induction setup instructions
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 11:47:40 -0500
Cc: gti-vr6@dev.tivoli
 
Friends I have worked on Gregs car and have seen his cold air setup. Very
nicely done.  However Gregs car is an OBD I car. If anyone should perform
this setup on an OBDII car you must be VERY VERY careful when you relocate
the canister. The problem lies in making sure the hose connections are
absolutely tight. The OBDII cars perform a evaporative system test when
started.  Especially if you own a 1998 0r 1999 because these cars also use
a LDP.
(Leak detection pump)  The system will pump down a minute after starting
the car cold. It will hold pressure an and check against the stored specs.
Any difference means gross or small leak and the check engine light comes
on. The evaporative purge valve checks itself during idle conditions after
the engine gets warm.
A loose gas cap will cause the check engine light to come on.

If it should happen to you and a trip to the dealer is necessary and the
dealer finds the cold air mod and because of a poor installation some
dealers will charge you and  some won't?

Don

Moderator VW Dealer mailing list.

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From gti-vr6-owner@ccsi Sun May 23 14:59 CDT 1999
From: Ian Frechette <frechett@rintintin.Colorado>
To: gti-vr6@cobra.ccsi
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Re:Midknight Motorsports Air Bath
Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 13:58:12 -0600
 
&#105;bnt&#64;erols<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15> wrote:
>  Yeah, the instruction are a bit on the weak side especially the part
>about the location to hook the charcoal canister on the drivers side.
>There is no place designated for it like the instructions imply.  Mine

Actually there is.  Sorta.  The little frame piece that it attaches to
on the original passenger side of the car has 4 holes in it, 3 in a row,
two of them slightly closer together, and below those two is the 4th hole.
All of the round holes have a slot below them.

The charcoal canister has 3 plastic tabs that go through the 3 holes
(2 close together and 1 below) and then it slides down into the slots
and then a little clip pokes through the bottom hole and locks it in place.

Ok, so over to the driver's side.  The same frame piece is there, but
in a VW cost cutting move, it's literally the same piece rotated
180 degrees.  That means the 4 holes we want are facing back toward
the tire and are completely worthless to us.

However, on the other side (front) of the frame piece are the 3 top holes,
again with two close to each other.  I verified that they are the right size
and distance from each other.  So we've got 2 out of the 3 holes we
need.  I noticed that the archive says something about cutting the 3rd
plastic tab off the canister.  I noticed that it flexes quite a bit, so I
said the hell with it, and just stuffed the top two tabs into their two holes
and let the bottom one flex out of the way.  The biggest problem was just
getting it pressed far enough into the holes to make it slide down into the
slots (which are also there as they should be).  I eventually stuck some
pliers into the holes and bent the top edge of the slots forward a little bit
so that the plastic tabs would simply pull themselves into the slots.

And yes, we did have to  relocate the relay in front of the battery to the
next hole over (about 1 1/2 inches away).  The kit really should have
supplied a nut for for the bolt that secures the relay but does not.  The
stock nut is welded to the frame so we had to go buy one.  Would be kinda
hard to do if you were trying to do this alone and your car was already in
pieces.

So now the cannister is in there quite solidly.  However, without the 3rd
lower hole that little clip that keeps the canister from sliding up
doesn't have anything to grab onto.  I couldn't find a good way to fasten
the canister in such a way to keep it from ever sliding up, although it's
so solid right now that it probably wouldn't do so unless someone hit it
from the bottom.  At one spot the canister is pretty close to a protruding
frame member (albeit nothing to get a zip tie through), so perhaps a big
hose clamp around the canister with the fat tightener part just below that
frame member would work to keep it from ever sliding up.

[...] 41 lines deleted









From gti-vr6-owner@ccsi Thu Jul 8 10:02 CDT 1999
From: Mike Bigus <gtivr6r@chicagonet>
To: Jim Chu <jimchu@CompuServe>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 10:04:25 -0500
Cc: GTI VR6 <gti-vr6@cobra.ccsi>
 
Jim,

	Amazingly enough, it will fit on the driver's side same location.
(below the battery)  You have to get yourself several feet of fuel line grade
vacuum line to make the lines longer.  I zip-tied mine to the bottom radiator
support rail and fed the lines back to the original location and secured them
with brass barbs and small hose clamps.

Good luck.

--
Mike Bigus
Tornado Red
'96 GTi VR6
(too many mods to list)


Jim Chu wrote:
>
> I just took off my front bumper to have the paint refreshed and am thinking
> about moving my charcoal canister and make a fresh air intake.  Where's the
> popular location to move it to?
>
> Jim
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From gti-vr6-owner@ccsi Thu Jul 8 10:16 CDT 1999
From: pm <pm@onramp>
To: Mike Bigus <gtivr6r@chicagonet>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 10:14:06 -0500
Cc: Jim Chu <jimchu@CompuServe>, GTI VR6 <gti-vr6@cobra.ccsi>
 
Just keep in mind that if you ever plan on adding an oil cooler, it
mounts under the battery on the frame rail.

Philip

Mike Bigus wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
>         Amazingly enough, it will fit on the driver's side same location.
> (below the battery)  You have to get yourself several feet of fuel line grade
> vacuum line to make the lines longer.  I zip-tied mine to the bottom radiator
> support rail and fed the lines back to the original location and secured them
> with brass barbs and small hose clamps.
>
> Good luck.
>
> --
> Mike Bigus
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From gti-vr6-owner@ccsi Thu Jul 8 10:46 CDT 1999
From: David Kim <glxvr6@ibm>
To: Jim Chu <jimchu@CompuServe>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 11:45:00 -0400
Cc: GTI VR6 <gti-vr6@cobra.ccsi>
 
Jim,

when I installed the MidKnight Motorsport Airbath system, I relocated
the charcoal canister to the driver's side of the engine bay, in the
exact same location but reverse.  If this fails, try this, a friend of
mine moved the charcoal canister towards the passenger side wheel arch.
This mod was on a Corrado so it might not be pertinent.

Hope this helps,

David Kim
1997 Vento GLX



>
> I just took off my front bumper to have the paint refreshed and am thinking
> about moving my charcoal canister and make a fresh air intake.  Where's the
> popular location to move it to?
>
> Jim
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From gti-vr6-owner@ccsi Thu Jul 8 11:39 CDT 1999
From: chris_rogers@corp.adaptec (Chris Rogers)
To: pm <pm@onramp>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 09:36:47 -0700
Cc: Mike Bigus <gtivr6r@chicagonet>, Jim Chu <jimchu@CompuServe>,
 
I think the cooler can go on either side.
-C
White 95 Golf VR6

pm wrote:

> Just keep in mind that if you ever plan on adding an oil cooler, it
> mounts under the battery on the frame rail.
>
> Philip
>
> Mike Bigus wrote:
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> >         Amazingly enough, it will fit on the driver's side same location.
> > (below the battery)  You have to get yourself several feet of fuel line grade
> > vacuum line to make the lines longer.  I zip-tied mine to the bottom radiator
> > support rail and fed the lines back to the original location and secured them
> > with brass barbs and small hose clamps.
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > --
> > Mike Bigus
> --
> For info on: how to subscribe & unsubscribe, the list's tech/how-to
>     library, etc.  see:   http://www.panix.com/~aqn/GTI_VR6/gti_vr6_list/



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From gti-vr6-owner@ccsi Thu Jul 8 12:00 CDT 1999
From: pm <pm@onramp>
To: Chris Rogers <chris_rogers@corp.adaptec>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Relocating Charcoal canister
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 11:58:04 -0500
Cc: Mike Bigus <gtivr6r@chicagonet>, Jim Chu <jimchu@CompuServe>,
 
Sure, but what's the point of moving the canister in the first place
then? If you have to move the canister for a cool air intake on the
pass. side and then decide to add an oil cooler you'll still have the
same dilemma. Do you remove the cool air intake, relocate the canister
again, or ...

Philip

Chris Rogers wrote:
>
> I think the cooler can go on either side.
> -C
> White 95 Golf VR6
>
> pm wrote:
>
> > Just keep in mind that if you ever plan on adding an oil cooler, it
> > mounts under the battery on the frame rail.
> >
> > Philip
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From gti-vr6-owner@ccsi Thu Jul 8 14:35 CDT 1999
From: Ben T <Ibnt@erols>
To: gti-vr6@ccsi
Subject: [gti-vr6] Re: Relocating the Charcoal Cannister
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 15:30:45 +0000
 
  Wow an actual ? that I can help Jim Chu on that he already doesn't
know the answer to.  This has got to be a list all time first :0P.  OK
here is the deal since I know that you have a 1995 like me.  When doing
this be advised that the section that is on the other side of the car
where you would hang the can from is NOT identical in my car.  In fact
it has a different hole pattern all together.  The hole that is key to
hanging the sucker is 1 cm too far to the right.  What was my solution
you ask, well, I zip tied the can through the holes.  Perhaps on 1996
models the hole pattern is identical to the opposite side .  So my can
is tightly tied through the holes in the frame and the center plastic
piece on the can itself.  Good luck because I tried and tried to hang it
through the holes but it was impossible.

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