GTI-VR6

Old Library

The information here is no longer maintained.

Please go to our NEW LIBRARY where we have imported this page and added more.

[GTI-VR6 Library] [GTI-VR6 Mailing List]     

How-to: More cold air induction

From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Sat Sep 19 22:30 CDT 1998
From: Adam Peirce <apeirce@snet>
To: RJG1199@aol, VR6 GTI list <gti-vr6@dev.tivoli>
Subject: [gti-vr6] Re: cold air induction (long, long, long)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:51:03 -0400
 
&#82;JG1199&#64;aol<img src=/i/dc.gif border=0 width=35 height=15> wrote:

> Hey, do you have a few minutes to describe that cold-induction
> set-up??
> I'm very interested in the possible gains off the line with good, cool
> air
> blasting my intake!
> Thanks,
> Rodney


Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, also I'm posting this to the
list as others might be interested.

The setup I did with my P-Flow was fairly straightforward but some parts
were a pain in the ass. The quick of the matter is I moved the evap
cannister, added some ducting and built a heat shield. I'll go
step-by-step on my processes.

1. Moving the Evaporative cannister.

To do this I followed listmember (and inventor of the Airbath) Myron
Ybarra's direction. Here's the supply list he offered:

Just to help you out a little, you can relocate the charcoal canister to

the opposite side of the car beneath the battery.  You will need  (2) 7
foot long 1/4 inch id fuel lines, (4) brass 1/4 inch inline barbed
connectors  (DON'T use plastic connectors, unless they are rated for use
in
fuel systems), (8) 1/4 inch stainless steel band clamps / anodized set
screws (I use them because they don't corrode), and 4-5 tie wrap
lines.   I
include these parts in my 96-97 Air Bath kits.  The relocation is really

self explanatory once you see where the canister will go.  The holes
where
the stock wrap bracket for the charcoal canister mount into are the same
on
the opposite side under the battery (there will be a relay just above
the
hole in front of the battery).   I believe the canisters on the 98's
have
the purge valve on or near them which will need to be relocated too.  I
haven't had a 98 to use in R&D for relocate testing  the valve yet so I
can't really help you out there.

Now let me add my footnote. I had to do two things on the bracket for
the EC. The first is to saw off the bottom of the three litttle tabs. On
my car (a '95) there were only two holes on the driver's side. They are
arranged in a triangle two on top one on bottom. The other thing I did
was loosen the bracket and slide the cannister down in the bracket to
clear a relay.

2. The next thing I did was create a template out of cardboard to design
the heatshield.

Basically it was alot of hassle trimming and moving the cardboard around
until it fit. I then tranferred the cardboard onto some aluminum
ductwork metal sheet and cut it out. Obviously the airbox is removed
from the car because you have a p-flow. I cut the metal with a hole to
fit onto the bracket and put two small holes in the sheet to correspond
with the P-Flow bracket and the MAF sensor bolts. I put a length of door
gasket around the top of the metal when it's installed and it seals
nicely against the bottom of the hood. (I'm trying to figure out a way
to transfer the plans for the heatshield into an easy format for the web
so people can download it, if not I might charge a nominal fee $5 to
cover the expense of making a large format copy and sending it via
snail-mail.)

3. The ductwork is made from a flexible 3" ductwork (it's pretty heavy
duty though, flexible but won't crush and holds it's shape really well)
that I bought at MegaLoMart (Home Depot).

It drops through the hole where the EC was and then I routed it to the
small outer grille under the bumper on the passenger side. The grille is
modified in two ways. I moved the thermometer to the splash guard
underneath the car, also I drilled out some of the solid plastic
blocking the grille. Another thing I did so the ductwork would fit is
cut some of the "trumpet" off the horn and rotated it around a little in
its bracket. The ductwork was then squeezed into an oval shape to fit
the opening better. I'm going to cut a pice of aluminum to fit the hole
better and provide a mounting point for the ducting. As it is right now,
it's just sort of wedged in place, I think the small aluminum piece will
also look a little buff too.

So all in all, alot of work just to get some small amount of power back.
At standstill It doesn't do shit, but on hotter days, once moving I felt
the roll-on power was better than without it. It also looks relatively
cool, I keep on meaning to get pics on my homepage. I'll take some this
week, also I'll try to get serious about the template.

E-mail me if you have any more questions.

-Adam
95 GTI VR6 "Raven"
71 BMW 2800CS Coupe "Petrel"

&#97;peirce&#64;snet<img src=/i/dn.gif border=0 width=35 height=15>
http://www.deckerhead.com/adam

--
For info on: how to subscribe & unsubscribe, the list's tech/how-to
    library, etc.  see:   http://www.panix.com/~aqn/GTI_VR6/gti_vr6_list/






©1995-2015 gti-vr6.net -- All Rights Reservered