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How-to: Another cold air induction system

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[gti-vr6] Greg Coe's cold air induction setup instructions (VERY long) "Greg Coe" <gcoe4733@postoffice.uri> Thu, 12 Nov 1998 22:41:37 -0500
Re: [gti-vr6] Greg Coe's cold air induction setup instructions deecee@exit109 Sat, 14 Nov 1998 11:47:40 -0500

From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Thu Nov 12 21:49 CST 1998
From: "Greg Coe" <gcoe4733@postoffice.uri>
To: "Wally Green" <coolwally@email.msn>,
Subject: [gti-vr6] Greg Coe's cold air induction setup instructions (VERY long)
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 22:41:37 -0500
Cc: "Simon O. Quezada" <QuuePaz@worldnet.att>, <U1arunit@aol>,
WOW!  I got tons of replies about my intake!  I'll do my best to explain
this, it's all from memory, I did the mod about 6 months ago.  I'll give you
a run down of what you need for this project:

Carbon canister relocation:

about 15 feet of 1/4" ID fuel line hose
4 barbed hose connectors
a bunch of fuel line clamps
some zip-ties (about 12 or so)
a 1" bolt and nut to relocate fan relay (only on some model years)

For the cold air ducting:

about 2 feet of 2 1/4" shop vac hose (I got mine from an old sears vac)
small snorkel off the back of the stock airbox where the trap-door thingy is
2 1/4" hole saw to cut opening in airbox

First step is to relocate the carbon canister to make room for the ducting.
Pull out the airbox assembly. Remove the two hoses going into the top of the
canister.  Pull off the shroud under the car beneath the canister.  There
are two phillips head screws on the front spoiler, and two 8 mm hex head
bolts in the fenderwell.  Push firmly upward on the canister from the bottom
of the car and pull it forward to release it from the frame.  It will take
some struggling to wiggle it out of the car from the bottom, but it will
come out.  Cut that 15' piece of fuel line directly in half, and splice it
to the existing hoses that led to the canister using the barbed connectors.
(Note:  one of the hoses (the black one) will have an enlarged end on it,
and a 90 degree bend.  Cut the hose about 4" from the end and save this
piece- it will be used on the other side to attach back onto the canister)
Route the hoses down through the opening where the canister was.  Using zip
ties, run the hoses along the front crossmember (under the radiator) and
secure them with zip-ties. (this will be quite obvious, the crossmember has
a channel the hoses sit in, and slots to run the ties through)  If you look
at the bracket attached to the carbon canister, you will notice that it has
3 tabs.  Snip off the center (lower) one with some wire cutters or
something.  If you have a pre-98 model, you will see the fan relay (#111)
just in front of the battery.  This will have to be moved slightly to make
room for the canister.  In the battery tray you will see an empty, unused
hole.  Remove the relay from its existing location and use the nut and bolt
to reattach it to this hole.  Now remove the shroud on the left side of the
car, and slide the carbon canister up into the area where the fan relay was.
You will notice that it will sit in the same position as it did on the
passenger side, except that there are only 2 slots in the frame rather than
the 3 that were on the passenger side.  (this is why you remove the center
tab)  Slide the canister into these slots (it will take some effort, make
sure it goes in all the way and it will be very secure) and run the 2 hoses
up to the top of the canister.  Trim to length.  Attach that 4 inch piece of
hose you cut off (the one that bends 90 degrees and has the large end)  to
the corresponding hose it came off of, and reattach it to the center fitting
on the canister with a clamp.  Attach the other hose (it slips right on) to
the canister and secure with a clamp.  Be sure you do not mix the hoses up,
and check that all fittings are tight, or you may get a check engine light!
Now for the installation of the ducting.  Remove the grille in the lower
right bumper opening (where the air temp sensor is).  Punch out the center
of  this grille and insert the airbox snorkel through the opening so that
the flared end is facing outward.  Run the shop vac hose down through the
carbon canister opening and out the grille opening. (you may have to bend
the horn bracket slightly; it bends easily)  Attach the hose to the back of
the snorkel (I just ran a small screw through them) and slide the assembly
back into the car, and reattach the temp sensor.  Using the holesaw, bore a
hole in the airbox just above where the carbon canister was and feed the
hose through.  It is a tight fit, and very secure.  The ridges in the shop
vac hose are the same thickness as the plastic on the airbox, so it
basically locks together.  Reinstall everything (airbox, shrouds, etc) and
you are all set!  Let me know if you need any help or info!


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From gti-vr6-owner@dev.tivoli Sat Nov 14 10:45 CST 1998
From: deecee@exit109
To: "Fiorentino F. Iantosca" <tiantosc@rational>
Subject: Re: [gti-vr6] Greg Coe's cold air induction setup instructions
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 11:47:40 -0500
Friends I have worked on Gregs car and have seen his cold air setup. Very
nicely done.  However Gregs car is an OBD I car. If anyone should perform
this setup on an OBDII car you must be VERY VERY careful when you relocate
the canister. The problem lies in making sure the hose connections are
absolutely tight. The OBDII cars perform a evaporative system test when
started.  Especially if you own a 1998 0r 1999 because these cars also use
a LDP.
(Leak detection pump)  The system will pump down a minute after starting
the car cold. It will hold pressure an and check against the stored specs.
Any difference means gross or small leak and the check engine light comes
on. The evaporative purge valve checks itself during idle conditions after
the engine gets warm.
A loose gas cap will cause the check engine light to come on.

If it should happen to you and a trip to the dealer is necessary and the
dealer finds the cold air mod and because of a poor installation some
dealers will charge you and  some won't?


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